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Baselworld Daily News | March 19, 2016 - Estate & Antique Jewellery

80 GEMSTONES DA ILY N E W S SATURDAY, MARCH 19, 2016 OLD WORLD MEETS NEW WORLD ESTATE AND ANTIQUE HOUSES AT TRACT NEX T GENERATION CUSTOMERS GEMS T ONE CA R V INGS OF F ER JE W ELLERS A WAY T O CRE AT E S TAND O U T DE SIGNS by Deborah A. Yonick A ppealing to the next genera- tion of collectors, leading estate and antique jewellery houses cultivate younger cus- tomers through education and open dialogue. These purveyors of treasures from days-gone-by are using interesting displays, social media and e-commerce, and encouraging services that take something old and make it new again to entice the next generation of customers. A millennial himself, Sam Loxton for Ernst Färber (3.0, C03) is injecting new blood in a category that sells old things. “We have an open approach to working with our customers,” he says. “We try to be inviting and approachable.” He cites using interesting wood displays in show- cases at this show and tells of creating a stand at a fair that looked like a 1920s Parisan apartment, coupled with a graffiti artist and plasma screens with interactive videos to create excitement. S culptural, sensual, sweet and sensational, gemstone carvings provide a central theme to inspire imaginative jewellers and bespoke designers to create jewellery that sets them apart of the competition. Using an array of exquisite gem material from rock crystal to the finest rubellite tourmaline, renowned lapidary houses like Gebrüder Kuhn (3.1, A23) and Herbert Klein (3.1, B01) make design dreams come true for imaginative artists. “Designers get impressions here of what is possible in crea- tive jewellery design,” says Susanne Schuler of Gebrüder Kuhn. “Almost CARVING A NICHE WITH COLOUR ESTATE AND ANTIQUE HOUSES AT TRACT NEX T GENERATION CUSTOMERS Loxton also incorporates new designs, such as Solange Azagury-Patridge’s Love rings to attract younger customers and inspire collecting, and presents what he considers to be contemporary-looking antique pieces like the work of 20th cen- tury jeweller Suzanne Belperron. More- over, social media is a must. “I’ve noticed this year’s increased use of Instagram, a great way to discover treasures that would’ve taken collectors years to find. We use a lot of hash tags, especially to find journalists at shows. It’s all about getting people across the threshold. With the decline in traditional stores, social media is most important.” But while Loxton does not sell over the Internet, Maurice Moradof of Yafa Sign Jewels (3.0, A25) has had success selling online. “We sell quite a bit to cus- tomers worldwide over the Internet – Bul- garia, Mainland China, the Middle East.” He notes that the collectors who are buy- ing online are Gen Xers to Baby Boomers who are knowledgeable about the brands and know Yafa’s reputation so they don’t need to touch and feel the piece. Moradof says the next generation is attracted to the brands that are popular in the estate and antique category and they can be cultivated through this expo- sure. Education is undoubtedly impor- tant in wooing the next generation, states Ida Färber of Faerber Collection (3.0, B03). She says she works with many young clients who inherit pieces that they want to redesign, recycle or upcycle to make their own, which also brings new collectors into the fold. TRENDING TREASURES While the Art Deco style is a mainstay, says Loxton, he has noticed demand levelling off lately. “The overriding theme though is that the piece has to be important. It’s all about quality.” Färber concurs that collectors want diiferent, rare and unique. “And above all, it has to be beautiful.” She cites colour Michael Youssoufian tiaras: top is modern tiara with 80 carat natural certified aquamarine and diamonds set in 18k gold; left Victorian era tiara with pearls and diamonds set in silver and gold. Sam Loxton for Ernst Färber holding a Tiffany emerald and diamond ring. Maurice Moradof, Yafa Signed Jewels holding a sea urchin clock by JAR. stones a favourite, with white diamonds a bit soft. She adds that the trend for big chunky pieces, especially bracelets, con- tinues, as well as for long gold chains with or without gems. Moradof cites 1960s and ‘70s jewellery is a bestseller for him, most notably Van Cleef & Arpels, because it is beautiful and very wearable. Tiaras are important as well, says Loxton, who notes that he has had more requests for tiaras in the last year than he can remember, and not only requests but also invoices. Färber says tiaras are espe- cially popular in the Asian market as many of the young royals there are wear- ing them in cool, contemporary ways. Michael Youssoufian (3.1, B19), who carries both estate/antique and contem- porary jewellery says that he has always carried tiaras, old and new that he designs. “The most interesting thing about tiaras of old is that they typically come apart to form several pieces including brooches, earrings, and neck- laces. The modern versions are much more delicate – both types sell.” by Deborah A. Yonick her collection, with one impressive piece weighing 131.14 carats. “I’m 100 percent sure no one else has that piece.” She also is showing some old mine “Pala pink tourmaline”, carved from old rough every motif is possible in gemstones. We have such a wide selection, from plain cabochons to complicated carvings to create unique designs in natural stones.” The company’s latest collection features sea life carvings of seashells, seahorses and starfish in chalcedony, mother of pearl, chrysoprase, turquoise, carnelian, and black fossilised coral. “We are constantly adding to our collec- tion with new motifs.” Gabriele Klein of Herbert Klein hails Baselworld the place to find the best, most rare and unique gem pieces on the planet. “People who come to Basel have an eye for quality and know the value of special, handmade pieces,” she says, citing some fabulous rubellite tourmaline flower carvings in Assorted gem carvings by Herbert Klein including 131.14 carat African rubellite (centre), with tanzanite leaves (left) and Pala pink tourmaline flowers (right). S P O T O N CONCEPT This year’s presentation by Groh + Ripp is entitled “Kaleidoscope”. If you look through the optical device and move it around, you will see some magnificent image compositions, just like when you hold a gemstone up to the light and turn it around. BACKGROUND The Groh + Ripp company is the number one address when it comes to exclusive coloured gemstones. The family business from Idar-Oberstein understands how to perfectly present the true beauty of exquisite gemstones using lighting and also has an excellent reputation among its international customers. USE The new posters at the Groh + Ripp stand are worth admiring – and likewise its exquisite new gemstone finds from all over the world. Many jewellers will want to use these posters in their dis- play windows to advertise the beauty of the stones and draw attention to the jewellery selection and stones from Groh + Ripp. WHERE TO SPOT 3.0, B09 Groh + Ripp Kaleidoscope from the Pala mine in California that no longer produces. “Creating around these one-of-a-kind pieces elevates the design and brings to the table something your competitors will not have.” Gem sea life carvings by Gebrüder Kuhn.

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