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Baselworld Daily News | March 19, 2016 - Fabergé / Messika

56 JEWELLERY DA ILY N E W S SATURDAY, MARCH 19.2016 YOKO LONDON – This year, luxury pearl jeweller Yoko London returned to Baselworld unveiling dreamlike new pearl creations featuring lustrous South Sea pearls with diamonds. In addition to these opulent masterpieces, the brand’s fashion forward Novus Collection has been developed to include gem quality Akoya and Fresh- water pearl jewellery in innovative designs, which can easily be worn from day to night. (db) SCHEFFEL – Large, flat earrings are the current trend. Designer jewellery company Scheffel of Munich is pre- senting its response to this with new pieces from the Rotondo collection. Soft, voluminous forms in gold with diamond stripes accent the feminine elegance. The distinctive design lan- guage typical of Scheffel can be traced throughout the collection. Despite its ample size this jewellery is not obtru- sive, whilst remaining pleasantly noticeable. (ahe) “IT’S ALL ABOUT THE ART OF COLOUR” AT FABERGÉ, T HE USE OF IN T ENSE COLO URS IS A S IMP OR TA N T A S T HE DE SIGN AND T HE E XCELLEN T CR AF T SM ANSHIP W I T H I T S LUX URIO US DIA M AN T S CÉL E S T E S COLLEC T ION, ME SSIK A PAY S HOM AGE T O T HE M AGIC OF DIA MONDS AND WOMEN Interview by Christel Trimborn T he London-based watch and jewellery brand, Fabergé is using the world’s finest coloured gemstones as well as brilliant enamel for its works of art. We spoke with the CEO, Sean Gilbertson, about the characteristic features of the current collections and their reference to historic designs. BWDN: Last year Fabergé presented the Pearl Egg, a stunning piece of art and craftsmanship. Is there anything similar on display this year? Sean Gilbertson: Yes, in fact we have just recently completed a set of four eggs which we call the Four Seasons Eggs, each absolutely unique. They are created with sapphires, emeralds, rubies and dia- monds. When you strike the ‘magic gem- stone’, the egg will open up via a mechan- ical movement and a little platform inside the egg will rise up and, hopefully, present a ring or whatever the customer wishes to store inside. They are proudly presented at the entrance to our booth. Can interested buyers purchase the Four Seasons Eggs individually or are they only available as a set? We would much prefer somebody who would keep the set altogether although our marketing team tells me that it would be quite interesting if the four W e have chosen the names of the constellations because they invoke images of the Greek goddesses and through them, of strong women with lots of personality,” says Valérie Messika, the founder and creator of the brand. “As was the case last year, I have used different cuts of diamond because each stone has its own language and personality. In a sense, I make the stones speak!” One of the stunning flagship pieces in the luxurious haute joaillerie collec- tion, the Calypso necklace, includes pear-cut diamonds with a very couture asymmetrical opening, reminiscent of the slit in a shirt or a scarf wrapped around the neck. “In Greek mythology, Calypso is a sea nymph who keeps Ulysses by her side for seven years on his return from Troy. I wanted to high- light this act of passion with a move- ment of diamonds which is representing a wave rising up in a sea spray of spar- kling diamonds.” Another core piece is the Cassiopée cuff bracelet which incorporates 64 oval- HEAVENLY CREATIONS SCHAFFRATH – The diamond ring Calla is one of the latest best sellers from Schaffrath. Gently embedded as if in a blossom, the diamond can release its fire to full effect. The ring is joined by a matching necklace and earrings. In addition, there are also models set with diamonds on the ring shank. The latest coup of the diamond jewellery manufac- ture: Calla has been augmented by fan- tasy-cut coloured stones at attractive prices. The set stones commence at 0.15 ct. The attractive Calla design dif- fers significantly from other solitaires on the market, helping it to achieve sales success. (ahe) N E W S eggs were to go to four different corners of the planet and for them to come together for a special occasion. Which role does the company’s history play in today’s design? As a matter of policy, we never replicate any of the designs from pre-1970. How- ever Fabergé represents one of the great- est and richest histories of design inspira- tion. Some of them extremely simple and elegant, some of them almost kitsch. There are some design elements, themes and motifs which we draw upon in order to create contemporary modern pieces for today and for the future. But we don’t always do that – for example the Emotion Collection, which is all about organic flow- ing pavé set gemstones in bright colours, does not draw a huge amount of inspira- tion from the pre-1970s. It is very modern and created for the present day. In your capacity as CEO, how much are you involved in developing the designs? I have always preferred open plan offices without doors. So I sit and work with the rest of the team. I am basically directly involved in helping to make sure that everything runs as smoothly as possible. I am not a designer by training and I certainly don’t regard myself as a creative genius but it is fascinating to help make sure that we end up with the finest conceivable products for Fabergé. Fabergé is renowned for its coloured enamelling work and for jewellery set with exquisite coloured stones. Is one more important than the other? No – Fabergé is all about the art of colour. We really have a fascination for it. The critical thing is that colour comes from two elements – one from the coloured gemstones, one from the enamel. We don’t favour one or the other. It is up to the design team to use either enamel or gemstones or both Sean Gilbertson, CEO Fabergé. together if they wish to do so. Enamel is still very much a part of what Fabergé does today – it is a very hot technique. Do you have any favourites in the current Fabergé jewellery collections? Well, it changes from time to time. At the moment it is what I call the ‘disco ball’ egg. It is invisibly-set with some absolutely remarkable gemstones, a gem-setting technique which Fabergé pioneered in the early 20th century. It is a skilful technique which uses single- faceted gemstones, perfectly calibrated in a narrow ribbon-like line, allowing the gold setting to remain invisible and cre- ating a flawless mosaic patterned finish. For me, this is the best piece on the planet at the moment. by Kyra Brenzinger cut diamonds which are set in motion thanks to the patented Skinny system, wrapping their way around the wrist like a second skin. Valérie Messika’s favourite trick is to make diamonds suit- able for everyday wear. As a woman of her time, she draws on the particularly fashionable trends of the day. She offers vari- ous ear cuffs, for example, such as the Calypso model which is inspired by the sensual form of the ears. “In homage to the nymph of the sea, I designed the cloak of a siren, cov- ering the ear in luminous diamonds.” To complement the haute joaillerie collection, Messika is also developing its jewellery collections and notably its best-sellers, Move and Amazone which are now available in rose, yellow and black diamonds. “I have also developed a new Triangle collection with a glam- Messika haute joaillerie collection Diamants Célestes – Calypso necklace, 65.41 ct of pear-cut diamonds set on white gold. 1.1, A13 rock vibe. To cre- ate the collection, my father, André Messika, studied how to produce a particularly difficult special triangle cut but as you can see, the end result was well worth it!” For lovers, there is the new Toi&Moi collection consisting of rings, bracelets and earrings and featuring a unison of two pear-cut and emerald-cut diamonds. “One significant new feature is the release of my first collection for men which is an hom- age to all the caring men in my life! To kick off with, I am exclusively presenting six titanium and dia- mond pieces at Baselworld. I have used light grey, anthracite or black titanium with white or black diamonds to counterbalance the bright shine of the diamonds.” The brand celebrated its 10-year anniversary in 2015 and the designer has recently released a text published by Assouline and written by English jewellery historian, Vivienne Becker. In case you hadn’t already realised, Valérie Messika was certainly born under an auspicious star! 1.1, B05 2.2, C15 2.1, F21 2.1, B21 Mosaic pendant with invisibly-set multi-coloured gemstones.

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