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Baselworld Daily News | March 19, 2016

2 WATCHES DA ILY N E W S SATURDAY, MARCH 19, 2016 Oyster Perpetual Air-King, Rolex. LEADER IN LUXURY BULGA RI CEO JE AN - CHRIS T OPHE BABIN TALKS ABO U T W H AT A PPE AL S T O MEN AND WOMEN ROLEX UPDATES THE OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING Interview by Elizabeth Doerr REVIVAL Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari CEO. New Serpenti watch, Bulgari. B ulgari is one of the few brands that appeals almost equally to both men and women, and at Baselworld it introduces seductive new watch models for both sexes. BWDN: How important is Baselworld to your business? Jean-Christophe Babin: Baselworld is the No. 1 watchmaking event in the world. Consequently, it is central for us in order to meet our clients and to intro- duce our new creations to the press. Your female consumers are integral to your brand. Can you elucidate the amount of quartz movements versus mechanical movements in your ladies’ watches? Out of our total ladies’ timepieces, more than 60 percent are equipped with mechanical movements – from simple three-hand movements to haute horlo- gerie tourbillon move- ments in the new Giardini collection, for instance. We tend to use quartz as more the exception than the rule. This especially comes into play when the case is very small like in some jewellery watches and the smaller sizes of our Lvcea and Bvlgari- Bvlgari lines. Beside that, we know that for many female clients the ease of quartz prevails over the beauty of mechanics as they want their precious watches to always have the right time without the bother of adjusting it. How important is quartz vs. mechanical to your customer? Generally speaking men prefer mechanical, and 100 percent of Bulgari’s gents’ watches are equipped with mechanical move- ments, most developed and manufac- tured internally such as the Solotempo movement equipping our Diagono, BB, and Octo, while our Finissimo equips the world record-breakers Octo and BB ultra-thin. The new round shape and design of the Serpenti Incantati is stupendous. Serpenti is Bulgari’s proprietary signa- ture, our emblem and symbol. This strong figure has always been executed as a wrist- coiled creation in Tubogas, jewellery, and high jewellery versions. Even if the three declinations remain awesome and will continue to be developed, we thought it was time to exploit the strength of the snake figure even more by giving this symbol a new added dimension. How important has the new Octo line been for Bulgari in attracting more male customers to your watches? The Octo line is definitely our key male collection. Since its launch in 2012 it has proven to be a high-potential model in every execution. The new Octo Ultranero is very stunning, urban, and contemporary. This watch appeals to younger customers who are trendy while also perfectly suited to more classic taste – mostly due to its black colour. Even though Octo is our premier masculine line, growing faster than any other, we also wish to develop the Bvlgari-Bvlgari and its sporty execution, the Diagono, proposing this year a very attractive range of new mechanical high- tech chronographs. Have the down sales figures of luxury watches affected you? Bulgari has a clear resilience to global turmoil as Bulgari is a global luxury universe offering watches, jewellery, perfumes, and accessories with several entries to luxury, starting from a cool piece of jewellery like the BZ01 ring for instance. When your portfolio exclu- sively includes watches at starting price point of 6,000 Swiss Francs, it might of course be more difficult to be resilient. My target is to continue with the 2015 pace. We closed the year with robust growth, while the first two months of 2016 have demonstrated that Bulgari remains more appealing than ever. What do you hope to achieve at Baselworld this year? Generate dreams among all those who will see our stand and creations. And confirm Bulgari as a leader in luxury! by Iris Wimmer -Olbort 1.0, A01 C O N T E N T S 01 WATCHES 04 Patek Philippe / Omega / Blancpain 08 Chopard / Mido / Corum 10 TAG Heuer / Longines / Boucheron 14 Manufacture Movements / Ebel / Graff 16 Hublot / Fabergé / Rado / Movado 20 Hamilton / Tutima / Certina / Emporio Armani 24 Moon phase / Raymond Weil / Alpina / Dreyfuss & Co. 28 Frédérique Constant / Versus / 250 Years of Pforzheim 32 Vulcain / Edox / L. Kendall / Festina 36 Franck Dubarry / Jacques Lemans Doxa / Swiss Military by Chrono 32 Casio / Kern / Sequel / Fiyta 35 Christophe Claret / Ressence / HYT 02 JEWELLERY 49 Jacob & Co. / Swarovski / Aaron Shum 50 Picchiotti / IsabelleFa / Pacôma 52 Marco Bicego 56 Fabergé / Messika 60 Trend: Deluxe Minimalism 03 INNOVATIONS 64 Testing Technology / Rapid Prototyping 68 Benchalist / Rubin & Son / Tecnilab / Merard 72 Bauer-Walser / Alfa Mirage / Ernst & Friends / 3Design Type3 76 Busch & Co. / Horia / Orion Welders by Sunstone Engineering / Town Talk Polish 04 GEMSTONES 80 Estate & Antique Jewellery 05 WORLD OF BASEL 84 Aaron Shum / Chopard / Carl F. Bucherer / Citizen / Imprint An ePaper edition of the Baselworld Daily News is also available for down- load from www.baselworld.com C reated in the 1950s, the Air-King is now available in a new version that alludes to the aeronautic tra- dition of the original Rolex Oyster. This is evident, for example, in the black dial with the enlarged numerals “3”, “9” and “6”, the modern typography, and the eye- catching scale for the minutes. The dial bears the name “Air-King” in its typical curvaceous script, the same lettering that was designed especially for the model in the 1950s. The face is framed by a 40 mm- diameter Oyster case. Made of stainless steel, it’s water-resistant to 100 metres and regarded as a paragon of robustness. Its characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant steel and is also fitted with a shield to protect against magnetic fields, a feature of pilot’s watches of the past. The case houses Rolex Calibre 3131, a self-winding mechanical movement with special Rolex components, for example the blue Parachrom hairspring. The escapement features a paramagnetic escape wheel made from a nickel-phos- FIND US AT www.facebook.com/ baselworld www.twitter.com/ #baselworld www.weibo.com/basel- world Join us on WeChat phorus alloy produced via UV-LiGA (micromanufacturing by electroforming). Calibre 3131 is equipped with a self- winding module featuring a Perpetual rotor and boasts a power reserve of approx- imately 48 hours. The Air-King carries the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015, which ensures singular performance. 1.0, A1 1 BREGUET EXHIBITION AT THE SWATCH GROUP PLAZA AMONG THE GREATS by Nina Hald Y esterday, Breguet invited the visitors of Baselworld to explore the worlds of important histori- cal figures that have left their mark on the company’s history. Drawing on the invaluable archives that enable Breguet to trace all sales of its watches from 1787 to the present day, the “Breguet, A Story Among the Greats” exhibition related the incredible ties which con- nect the House to several famous fig- ures, kings and queens, writers, politi- cians and composers. Capable of meeting the require- ments of his famous customers since 1775, Abraham-Louis Breguet also inspired some renowned authors, who were quick to cite him in their works, describing the timepieces as legendary objects synonymous with genius, beauty, culture, luxury and creativity. The House regularly exhibits archive mate- rial about those who have contributed to its history, and who remain an invaluable source of inspiration. From queen Marie- Antoinette, one of the first and most fervent admirers of Breguet’s unmatched timepieces, to emperor Napoleon Bona- parte, his family, allies and enemies, and later Gioachino Rossini and Winston Churchill – today, the Breguet brand pays tribute to them and opens its regis- ters here at the Swatch Group Plaza in Hall 1.0. The exhibition is a plunge into a fascinating chapter of watchmaking history, discovering famous names that have left their mark on their eras. It is also open to the public today. 1.0, A1 9 The exhibition explores the stories of famous historical figures who owned Breguet watches.

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